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Home>Knowledge Base>FAQ>Wayne Dalton

Frequently Asked Questions Wayne Dalton
- Classic Drive
- Doormaster
- idrive
- Models 100-320
- prodrive
- Quantum
- Wizard
 
 
- Garage door won't close from remote controls only closes when wall button is held down
- HomeLink Compatible Wayne Dalton Garage Door Opener Models
- How do I get additional help if I can't find the answer on this website?
- I purchased my unit from an authorized Wayne-Dalton dealer or retailer. How do I get missing parts?
- Limited Range of Remote Controls
- The garage door opener operates properly, but the light does not run on.
- Weather Damage - Warranty?
- Why do light bulbs burn out so often?
Garage door won't close from remote controls only closes when wall button is held down 1/21/2011

Usually when the door cannot be closed by remote control and the wall button has to be held down to close it, it means there is something wrong with your infrared photo eyes (found down by the floor on both sides of your garage door opening). Either they are not "looking" at each other, or they are faulty. The first thing I would do is make sure they are looking at each other (someone may have accidentally knocked them out of alignment or a leaf or debris may be stuck to the front of one of them).

If they still will not work, they are probably faulty and need replacement.

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HomeLink Compatible Wayne Dalton Garage Door Opener Models 1/21/2011
The following Wayne Dalton models are compatible with HomeLink. If your opener model is not on the list, it is not HomeLink compatible. We do carry a HomeLink conversion kit so you can make your opener compatible.

HomeLink Compatible Wayne Dalton Models
  • Wayne Dalton Classic Drive models 3014, 3018, 3514, all other models using 372Mhz frequency
  • Wayne Dalton Quantum models 3214, 3314, 3316, 3414, all other models using 372Mhz frequency
  • Wayne Dalton idrive models that have a yellow antennae wire
  • Wayne Dalton prodrive - All models
We do have a HomeLink Conversion Kit for garage door openers that are not compatible with HomeLink to make them HomeLink compatible. Please click on the HomeLink Kit link on the left side of the page to view these kits.

Checking other brands of garage door opener for HomeLink Compatibility:
  • First of all, you must have a hand-held transmitter (remote control) for your garage door opener to program HomeLink.
  • If you dont have a transmitter/remote control you will need our HomeLink Conversion Kit.
The best way to program an older garage door opener is:
  • Put NEW batteries in your garage door opener transmitter/remote control.
  • Hold the transmitter/remote control between one and three inches away from the Homelink surface until HomeLink learns the signal.
  • If HomeLink has not picked up the signal within a few seconds, position the transmitter/remote control at different lengths and angles from the HomeLink surface and try again. 
If none of this works, your garage door opener is not HomeLink compatible and you will need our HomeLink Conversion Kit to make it compatible.

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How do I get additional help if I can't find the answer on this website? 4/8/2011
Question:
How do I get additional help if I can't find the answer on this website?

Answer:
If you need additional help we recommend you contact your local dealer. If a local dealer isn't available - please call 1-888-827-DOOR.
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I purchased my unit from an authorized Wayne-Dalton dealer or retailer. How do I get missing parts? 4/8/2011
Question:
I purchased my unit from an authorized Wayne-Dalton dealer or retailer. How do I get missing parts?

Answer:
Call (888) 827-3667 and provide the following information available: your name, address, Model/Series number, Purchase Location (name, city, state), D.O.M. (date-of manufacture located on the bottom center of the back panel), and the 5-Digit Code (located on your box - most likely on a sticker).
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Limited Range of Remote Controls 1/21/2011
Limited range of your remote controls could be related to radio frequency interference that comes from something in your home or in the surrounding environment. Certain electrical devices can radiate interference; this could be almost anything that is plugged into an electrical outlet.

Please keep in mind that the device can be brand new, or can be an item that has been in use for quite a while. Also, the item may continue to function properly as far as you are able to tell. The only problem with the item may be that it has started to broadcast the interference, with no other symptoms noted.

Some devices are more likely to generate interference than others. This includes TV cable, cable amplifiers, surge protectors, fluorescent lights, battery charging devices (power tools, golf carts, etc.), anything that utilizes a timer (sprinkler systems, lights, alarm systems, etc.), and a myriad of others. If the problem seems sporadic, we can safely assume that the device responsible for the interference is only being operated during those times. Again, please keep in mind that the age of the device does not determine if it is capable of broadcasting unwanted interference. Any electrical device can be the source of the problem.

The first step is replacing the battery in your remote. If the range on your remote does not improve, remove the wall control wires from the overhead unit. If the range does not improve you will likely need to replace the remote control. After replacing the remote, or if you have other remotes programmed in to the opener, and the range problem still exists, please proceed to the Power Down test.

Multiple garage doors:
If you have two garage door units and one is working just fine, you will need to start by unplugging the good unit. This will help determine if the unit with no range starts to function properly. If the range comes back to the bad unit then you will need to replace the logic board on the unit that was unplugged as it is emitting an RF signal that is over powering the other garage door opener. If the range does not improve after the "good" unit has been unplugged, replace the batteries and try programming some additional remotes to determine if the existing remotes are the issue. If the extra remotes do not have any range then you would need to replace the receiver logic board in the "bad" unit.

Power Down test:
To isolate potential sources of interference, turn the circuit breaker off to the garage and plug the garage door opener into an extension cord from another room. If the range improves, then the interference is coming from a device in the garage. If no improvement is seen follow the same procedure, this time turning off the circuit breakers to your home, with the exception of the garage, and test the remote controls. If improvement is noted, turn the circuit breakers back on, one by one, until the range problem resurfaces. This will allow you to narrow down what room the problem device is in. You will have to go from there to isolate it further, by unplugging and re-plugging the items in that room.

If you are unable to determine any source of interference, then the receiver logic board in the overhead unit will need to be replaced.
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The garage door opener operates properly, but the light does not run on. 4/8/2011

Question:
The garage door opener operates properly, but the light does not turn on.

Answer:
First, make sure that the light bulb works. Second, unplug the power cord. Remove the diffuser (white plastic cover for light). Remove the light bulb. With a needle nose pliers, pull out the copper contact a bit that is inside the bulb holder. It may be pressed too far in and is not making contact with the bulb.
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Weather Damage - Warranty? 4/8/2011
Question:
A recent electrical storm (or other act of nature) affected my garage door opener, along with other appliances in my house. Is this covered by the product warranty.

Answer:
No, acts of nature are not covered under the product warranty. However, check your homeowner insurance. These policies often cover damage due to acts of nature.
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Why do light bulbs burn out so often? 4/8/2011
Question:
Why do light bulbs burn out so often?

Answer:
There are three possible causes: 1) Extreme changes in temperature outside shortens a bulb's life, 2) Poor seals on the bulb. If the vacuum leaks into the atmosphere, the filament will burn out at once and 3) Vibration can cause the thinner filament of regular bulbs to bur out quickly. Resolution: Use a rough service bulb (for vibration) or a refrigerator bulb (for cold weather conditions).
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